EXPAT—More Adventures of a British Exile
by Ian Whitcomb
Ian Whitcomb is a highly respected performer,
composer, and music historian. You can find all of his CD's, DVD's, Books, and
Songbooks by clicking here,
or by going to
ianwhitcomb.com
Frogtown, near Los Angeles, California.
My Internet radio show, reaching Godalming when I last
reported, is now heard in Vienna. The problem is: everywhere else. Potentially
we can be received worldwide, but the station tally counter hovers around 90.
Where is everybody? Perhaps I should simply resort to a roving mike program
because the street action round here is as violent as anything you see on the
screen. The other night, seconds after I’d played Vera Lynn’s “We’ll Meet Again”
and said goodnight, there was a rat-tat-tat of machine gun fire right outside
the window. I rushed to take a look. “Not a good idea”, said Chuck, the
engineer. “Why not? I’m wearing my volunteer sheriff jacket”. “That’s what I
mean”. “But you told me they only kill each other” He gave up and I went
exploring.
The street was crammed with police cars, lights whirling like
a fun-fair. “Who the hell are you? said the chief cop. “I’m security for
Twinkies Bakery”, I said waving to the row of shabby brick buildings where by
day sugary cakes and white bread are manufactured but there’s no delicious aroma
because they bake with chemicals. “Well, move on, buster—we got corpses to deal
with”. I slunk home, miles from this mayhem, wondering what in the world I was
doing out west.
Next day I got an answer, a beautiful surprise. Joseph
Wambaugh, the ex-cop-cum-best-selling crime novelist and old friend of mine,
e-mailed to ask whether I’d research the riverbank near Frogtown for a scene in
his next murder mystery. A river in L.A? I always thought we were in desert
country and stole our water from unsophisticated farmers up North. But, with
Chuck as my guide, I took a look. It was a revelation:
On a balmy late afternoon, an hour from cocktail time, we
strolled behind Twinkies Bakery, through bright metal gates in the shape of two
bronze herons welcoming us to “Rattlesnake Park”, and there on a rock was
painted a poem: “I wish you would walk with us here more often/ Redwing
blackbirds nesting in the cat tails/ Electricity humming in the high tension
wires”. Gurgling and swishing below us was a mighty, but tamed, river.
As we walked down the paved path above the concrete trough
that keeps the L.A river from flooding during the brief rainy periods (when she
overdoes it in the Californian manner) we were overtaken my merry cyclists in
full costume, waving and grinning. On the other side of the rushing water,
complete with tiny waterfalls, were ducks relaxing in a nook sheltered by
swaying reeds and palms and bushes. A little further on were lush green islands
visited in the summer, said Chuck, by homeless folk from other states, keen to
set up camp and get down to solid partying.
Two of the early birds, aromatic bums, were sitting rather
too closely together on a nice wooden bench (inscribed with another riparian
poem). “Are you guys here to put in the new grass?” demanded one. We moved on,
noting the neat pile of soiled underwear and enormous bra. Other colourful
details include the rear quarters of a sinister armed van company called GARDA
(“The System Is The Solution”) and of course the multi-coloured graffiti
covering bridges and riverbank and anywhere enticing, an angry Latino culture
seeking legacy in outlaw artwork. Most apparent are KAOS, PRISNT and KENTI; in
careful penmanship on a tree trunk is “Slay Zion But Pleaz Don’t Buff”.
As we reached a rather bleak bridge, dark with frenzied
lettering, a woman resembling a Mexican peasant emerged from the gloom, cycling
at a furious pace. She whizzed past shouting: “Banditos! Banditos!” Chuck
understood and ordered us to leap over a fence. We found ourselves in a dead end
street, like an abandoned movie set, with industrial buildings painted with
trompe d’oeuil scenes. From daintily curtained windows storybook characters
gazed down: a flushed Swiss-type gent enjoying his meerschaum pipe; a fat
contented cat. Spoiling the magic was a sign stating: “ Standard Arms
Manufacturing”. Within minutes we were back at the radio station, ready for a
Martini.
It felt good to know that there is this exotic and exciting
riparian world just beneath the window. So next time you visit the Southland
take time off from Disneyland, Malibu and Beverly Hills and come join Chuck and
me on a river walk. And perhaps pitch a tent on one of the verdant islands.
Wikipedia says our water is only 80% recycled sewage, cleaner than most urban
rivers of the world, including London. But I haven’t seen any frogs lately.
Maybe they’ll come with the hobos in the summer.
PS: Joseph Wambaugh thanked me for my work but said he’s
thought twice about the Frogtown river scene.
Ian Whitcomb,
Altadena, California,
Otcober, 2007.
Ian Whitcomb is a highly respected performer,
composer, and music historian. You can find all of his CD's, DVD's, Books, and
Songbooks by clicking here,
or by going to
ianwhitcomb.com